Over The Hill

A look at the map and it is easy to see that the hills around Lochgoilhead and the shores along Loch Goil are heavily wooded and offer a multitude of paths and tracks for the walker. That is until you realise that the forests have mainly matured and have been the target of felling for quite some years now, all of which has resulted in many tracks disappearing as areas are felled and replanted or, that new tracks are created to allow access for felling and planting. All very confusing when you head into the hills, as you are often confronted with changes having to be made to your planned route as you go. However, the hills and mountains above the treeline are quite magnificent and the odd blocked or changed track is a minor inconvenience which should not detract from some wonderful walking.

And so it was for todays walk, Mike had done his homework and recce well to come up with a fine circular walk which would circumnavigate the rugged Cruach nam Miseag and visit the remote Lochan nan Cnaimh, taking in some old and some new tracks, and just to make it interesting a few sections of “where has the path gone to”,and “we used to go that way but …..”.

Setting off from the estate offices at Lettermay we headed south along a fine forest track which parallels the shoreline at around the 150 metre height; as we did so the views opened over Loch Goil as it lay calm and blue ahead of us stretching into the distance as it linked up with Loch Long. We followed this track until we reached the bridge across the Cormonachan Burn, where a few metres beyond we diverted onto a lesser but still distinct track to begin the generally westward travel to Lochan nan Cnaimh. Loch Goil now behind us, this track, new to me, turned into an absolute gem as it climbed up and contoured around the minor crags of Creag Dhubh na Criche and Creag a Chromain, a wonderful winding track lined with bush and scrub, a remote feeling with stunning views of the rugged southern slopes of Cruach nam Miseag. Brilliant.

Quite suddenly this track stops dead. The crags are left behind and ahead lies about 600 metres of wet grassland, beyond which is Lochan nan Cnaimh, still unseen as there is a slight rise ahead yet to be climbed. Thankfully the wet area was in fact quite dry with just a touch of surface water lying at the base of the deep grass and reeds making it a fairly easy crossing to the rise at which point Lochan nan Cnaimh suddenly appears just a stroll ahead. We turned towards the lochside and an old walled enclosure, to small to be a dwelling but probably a shelter of some sort as it has an obvious opening and it may also have had a grass and earth roof, whatever, it provided an ideal spot for us to take a very leisurely lunch break and just enjoy the moment.

We departed our lunch spot and skirted around the southern edge of the lochan to the outflow on the west side, and it is here that the phrase “we used to go that way but …..” was heard, as where there once was a narrow track through thick forest has long since been blocked by a mass of fallen trees leaving no alternative but to climb above the forest and contour along the steep western slopes of Cruach nam Miseag. Steep enough in that a slipe, as was very well demonstrated by our resident poet, plunges you ignominiously into the fence and trees below. A couple of hundred metres contouring and an area where the trees have been felled is reached down which you can go to regain the old track. But this is no picnic either, the trees have been felled but the detritus of broken stumps and branches, now covered in overgrown grasses, is positively challenging. So serious head on, take it very steady and pick each step carefully then relax a little when the old track is reached and raise the eyes to once again take in the fine views of Beinn Bheula and Beinn Lochain as we make a steady return to Lettermay.

What a brilliant day, it had everything; but my top spot was that winding, twisting track from the bridge over the Cormonachan Burn to Lochan nan Cnaimh, just stunning. Thanks Mike