Over The Hill

As we parked near the old Heli-pad in the car-park at the Pass of Glencoe, the rain and low cloud heralded what was ahead for the remainder of the day. Never-the-less, this was Glen Coe, and nothing, walks or weather, is ever easy from Glen Coe. It was even difficult getting out of the car-park, as 4 or 5 busloads of tourist arrived and filled the car-park with camera wielding happy-snappers, so we had to fight our way through them just to get onto the track leading down to the footbridge by the Meeting of Three Waters to begin the climb up through the ravine leading up to the Lost Valley.

Once across the narrow footbridge, the path climbing up through the ravine has a number of sections where care is required, especially in the wet. At one point, a rope handrail is conveniently situated to help the walker over some stone slabs, which are at an awkward angle, and quite slippery when wet. At another, depending on your inside leg measurement, you can either step over or crawl under the roots of a large tree which spans the path. Further up the ravine, the path is very narrow with a precipitous drop to the river below - I believe it has been the scene of the rescue of a few tourist who have strayed a bit far from the comfort of their luxury coaches!

At the head of the ravine it is necessary to cross the Allt Coire Gabhail, which thankfully today was easy enough as the water level was quite low. Once across the river its then a short climb along a rocky path before the vista over the wide valley basin open up ahead. At this point, there are three huge boulders lying in the valley floor, no doubt deposited there by some glacial movement in the distant past.

We took a short break here just to enjoy the solitude of this valley. It is said that the cattle rustlers of the 17th and 18th century hide their stolen cattle in this valley so the kings troops could not find them. If true, those cattle must have been mountain goats to get to this point.

We set off again, heading across the stony valley floor towards the high hillside path which climbs relentlessly up and onto the Bealach Dearg at the head of the valley. We progressed up the path in every increasing rain showers to a point about 700m before the bealach where the track forks, the main track continuing up to the bealach, and a minor track heading northwest up into the crags below the col between Stob Coire nan Lochan and Bidean nam Bian.

No only did the path split here, but at this so did our group of eleven. An intentional split I should add. Those who had only intended to complete a round of the Lost Valley retraced their step back to Glen Coe, whilst the remaining seven of us who intended on climbing Bidean nam Bian continued up the minor track, which soon petered out and left us with a very steep and arduous climb up rocky slopes, which at times required the use of hands and legs to negotiate short sections of rock and grassy ledges.

This section was hard going, made more difficult with the rain and wet conditions, the cloud base was drifting in and out giving a very eerie feeling as the crags loomed closer and became quite steep. At one point, Janet and I thought we had lost contact with Ian and Alan who had been climbing just ahead of us. I called out to locate them, and was surprised to see them poke their heads over the rock directly above me, having reached the ridge they were now looking directly down on us. A few minutes later we joined them on the ridge, and finally all of us gathered on the ridge, smack bang on where we had been heading for.

Since leaving Glen Coe, we had seen only two other walkers, in the lower reaches of the Lost Valley, suddenly on the ridge, we had groups appearing form left and right, coming down both Stob Coire nan Lochan and Bidean nam Bian all heading for their piece of the very narrow ridge at the col. A short stop for us to re-group and we were off up the very steep final climb to the summit of Bidean. On first approach, and through the cloud, it looked a very daunting challenge. However, as we progressed it was hard, but less daunting than at first sight. I found it easier to scramble up the large boulders to the right of the path, rather than struggle up the steep, loose rock path.

As the summit is reached, the large boulders give way to a rock strewn dome, atop which sits the summit cairn. As we gathered here, we were joined by three, (or was it four?) lads from London who were spending a week Munro bagging around Glen Coe, this was the group we had seen coming down from Stob Coire nan Lochan as we joined the ridge, and they were intrigued as to how we had suddenly appeared from nowhere on the ridge in front of them. So we enlightened them as to our more unusual approach route from the Lost Valley. I have to thank one of them for taking the summit photo for me, allowing me to join the rest of our crew.

A quick lunch stop just beyond the summit, and we were off down the southeast ridge heading for our drop-off point at Bealach Dearg. The rocky path along this section runs perilously close to some very dramatic crags which drop away on the left (as you walk from Bidean to the Bealach).

The drop-off from Bealach Dearg into the Lost Valley is quite renowned for its awkward little scramble, the path down having been severely eroded by the passage of years of boot shod walkers and climbers, and also the toll that winter ice and snow takes on such routes. Ian gathered us for the descent and lead the way, the watch word being take your time and make sure of your footing and handholds as you scramble down the gap.

Its a short scramble, and with caution you are soon on steep, but less loose ground and zigzagging down towards the high level path below. It was at this point that we met the only piece of snow covered ground of the day. (Although we had seen quite a few snow covered areas in some of the gullies as we made our ascent.) It was just a short stretch, but gave us a little fun as a few of the party "tobogganed" down on their backside.

Back on the high level path, we were soon at the junction where we had earlier left the path to ascend via the crags, and from this point it was a matter of retracing our steps down through the floor of the Lost Valley, and on down the ravine and eventually the car-park in Glen Coe.

Despise the poor weather conditions, this was an excellent days walk, challenging and strenuous but with a marvelous summit - pity about the views, but then that leaves the option to return again on another day. - Great day, thanks Barbara and Ian