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Lairig Eilde & Lairig Gartain

Saturday 2nd March 2013

14kms

5hrs 15mins

Second Saturday in succession and we had 17 walkers, at this rate we will be dumping the cars and hiring a Char-a-banc (or Charabang whichever you prefer); it would certainly take less space in the car park. Mairi did a good job of rounding us all up at the start and we were soon off up the track heading into the Lairig Eilde. Last time along this track we took the high path at the fork aiming for the two Munros atop the Buachaille Etive Beag.

This time however, we forked onto the lower path to head downhill before making a relatively easy crossing of the Allt Lairig Eilde, the water level being quite low for this time of the year. On the north side of the river, the path heads south southwest, following the river course, as it rises very gently towards the watershed at 489m in higher reaches of Lairig Eilde.

As we progressed the low cloud base started to disperse and we had periods of blue skies and sunshine which gave us tantalising views of the high hills and ridges lining each side of the valley and of the mighty south east ridge of Stob Coire Sgreamhach looming directly in front of us at the head of the valley. We were not alone on the hills, this was Glen Coe after all, and we soon spotted one lone walker heading directly up the steep and snow clad slopes of Beinn Fhada to our right, and two very intrepid climbers were scaling the higher rocks and crevasses on a very challenging route, heading directly for the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach.

We crossed the 489m high point and immediately started to descent towards Glen Etive and the Lairig Gartain, our route of return. The watershed at this point is very evident, one moment the Allt Lairig Eilde is flowing north into the Lairig Eilde, and within a few steps it is then tumbling down a small waterfall and flowing south, down into Glen Etive.

The path drops steeply alongside the tumbling river, but we left the path just below the waterfall and contoured around the grassy hillside at the 350m level on the south west ridge of Stob Dubh aiming to intercept the path alongside the Allt Gartain just below the second watershed of the day, at the 489m col in the Lairig Gartain. Before completing the contour, we had one important factor to consider, lunch. And so we chose an idyllic spot, high on the contour with great views looking down to Loch Etive and its surrounding hills as our stopping point.

The weather had been fine till this point, but right on cue, as we finished our lunch the rain, which had been slowly creeping up Loch Etive, reached us, and so we set off up the final few metres to the 489m cairn in what was an annoying and persistent drizzle.

This is another ideal example of a watershed, where the Allt Gartain begins its journey heading southwest down into Glen Etive, and within a few metres, the River Coupall begins its journey northeast down into the Lairig Gartain and into Glen Coe, where it merges into the River Etive, does a complete turn-around and flows southwest on the opposite side of Buachaille Etive Mor all the way back down Glen Etive, where it meets with the Allt Gartain and follows on into Loch Etive - fascinating!

As we descended the Lairig Gartain the rain stopped and as the sun broke through, we had some beautiful views ahead over Glen Coe and to the Mamores in the far distance. Continuing on the good, well maintained path, we were soon approaching the A82, and rather than walk along this busy road back to the car park, we crossed over and onto the Old Military Road, and thanks to General Wade, were able to take an easy stroll back to our cars.

A short drive, and we were settled in the Bridge of Orchy Hotel enjoying our well earned refreshments. An excellent walk, with plenty of interest along the way - thanks Mairi