Over The Hill

We set off in the afternoon of 23 May via the A9 for a change, to Ardgay, near Bonar Bridge about 200 miles north of home. It seemed to take forever but was easy driving. We reached our spot for the night which was the car park area at the start of the Alladale Wilderness Reserve, about 10 miles west of Ardgay. We found a spot eventually for Les’ tent, and settled down for the night.

We left the next morning on bikes about 8am for the long 16k ride to the foot of Carn Ban. The track to Alladale Lodge was smooth in comparison with what was to come, and we both enjoyed this part very much, stopping quite often to take photos of the magnificent Scots Pines, and the fast flowing river. At the Lodge there is a large noticeboard with a map of the area and photos with explanations of what the Estate is trying to achieve. The track undulates along the very pretty Gleann Mor beside the Abhainn a Ghlinne Mhor although getting progressively rougher. We saw some folk camping and around a corner spoke to the driver of a landrover, who turned out to be one of the leaders of a group of children aged 11-14 from Wick School who were on a five day “outward bound course”. On and on we went gradually climbing all the time until we crossed the river and reached Deanich Lodge. An estate worker had passed us earlier in a truck but had no room for us or our bikes. He was going to drop off supplies at Deanich Lodge for the children. Only another 4k to our stopping place, which we reached about 11am. We were glad to be off the bikes, and padlocked them together, although who would take them from this very remote place we wondered.

After a coffee break we set off looking for the stalkers’ path which would take us up the steep and very rocky slopes of Cail Mhor to Loch Sruban Mora. There had been a landslide and we lost the path but managed to find the ford which crossed the river from the loch, which was just as well because the river was very fast flowing. The stalkers’ path was a welcome route and we were soon at the loch. From here it is about a 3.5k walk along and up about 250m rather featureless ground to the top of Carn Ban. However, as we climbed the views to the west appeared of the four munros with Beinn Dearg being the highest. Seana Bhraigh seemed close and I remembered climbing this, my 200th Munro in September 2005, and we saw nothing that day, so it was a real joy to be able to see today. Further on views to the north west opened out, and we could see Suilven first, then Cul Mor and Cul Beag, Stac Pollaidh and lastly Ben Mor Coigach. The Isle of Lewis was just seen out to sea. There was a very cold north wind blowing but this meant we had such clear views, and they were amazing. We couldn’t stop looking at at these far hills and it certainly lifted our spirits, and made the trek to the top much more enjoyable, not to mention the slog on the bike. We got to the cairn about 2pm and retreated quickly to find some shelter to have something to eat.

We retraced our steps and got back to the bikes around 4pm. Time now to get back to where we started. The ride back was mostly freewheeling, but on such a rough surface great care and concentration was needed to avoid falling off. The children had walked from their morning’s camp spot to set up their tents at Deanich Lodge, and as we passed I saw one wee boy’s face which I won’t forget as he looked quite forlorn – and it was only day 1 of their trip. We had a cup of tea and more fuel around 6pm and eventually arrived back at the van at 7pm, just as the rain started. Bikes were quickly stowed in the van and we headed back to Ardgay to our wonderful Glamping Pod, such a treat, a shower and a proper bed.

The intention was to do another hill the next day, from the same starting point but down Glen Calvie, but the weather was against us. Heavy rain and strengthening wind was not what we wanted, so we gave up on that idea and headed home. I kept thinking about those children, under canvas, in ghastly weather. Still, perhaps it was better than being in school.