Over The Hill

I reckoned we could squeeze in another Corbett before the weather changed and asked Alex if she’d like to join us. As this was a reasonable length of cycle (9k) and not a high hill, she thought it would be good fun to complete one all together after the last disastrous attempt on Beinn Bhreac. We all met at Crianlarich and Les followed us in her car.

Beinn a Chaisteil lies above Loch Vaich which is in the private estate between Garve and Aultguish. We parked up for the night at Black Bridge in the layby just off the road, which proved to be fairly noisy with traffic late into the night. There was a breeze when we arrived but as soon as we took the bikes out, and helped Les pitch her tent, the midges descended in their thousands. Quick, into the van for a “girls night out” supper. Speed was essential! Alarm set for 6am, here we go again.

If we thought the midges were bad at night, they were out in their millions in the morning. Oh my goodness poor Alex found them a real trial – perhaps Les and I are more used to them living in the west. “Smidge” was plastered over every exposed bit of flesh. The mist was rising over the river and the cloud was down, but on the positive side, the first 4k of the track was tarmac, so off we set around 7.30am as fast as we could. Richard and I had cycled along this track for about 6k after a Ramblers’ away weekend to Blair Atholl, but on that day the weather was inclement and there was a headwind, so we decided to abort.

We left the main track at the farm at Lubriach and headed uphill to the dam knowing that it was more or less downhill all the way to the start of the hill at Lubachlaggan. There were a couple of old red roofed cottages here. The level of water in Loch Vaich was very low, and exposed much light and dark coloured sandy soil. Around 9.30am we dumped the bikes and set off up the hill. There was a good stalkers’ path to start which made it easier to climb the steep first part of the hill. Not much breeze, so it was warm climbing, and the clegs were annoying, but the cloud had lifted so views had opened up. Further on, the path disappeared but there were two cairns to indicate the ridgeline which were helpful. The gradient eased and the terrain became more stony with very short heather. Here we spotted an Alpine Bearberry, whose berries were red but when they ripen further and turn black, are edible. An easy walk took us to the cairn and it was only 10.30am! I couldn’t believe it. It was coffee time not lunch time – no matter we enjoyed our break. Unfortunately the cloud still lingered on the mountain tops in the distance, so we couldn’t see Seana Bhraigh in all its glory, nor a view of Suilven, which apparently one can through one of its cols. We also tried to identify Carn Ban which is yet to be conquered, but it too, was shrouded in cloud. This hill lies another 9k along the same track, but we think we will attempt it from further north cycling along Gleann Mor from Alladale Lodge.

Time to go and do the route in reverse, and I spotted a small clump of lucky white heather. The cycle back only took 1 hour 5 mins so we were back at the van at 1.15pm and, bliss, nae wee beasties! After changing we made a cup of tea and then a man on a laden bike arrived in the layby. Our bikes and backpacks were strewn around the van so we had a wee chat and I had a terrible “foot in mouth” moment. On the front on the handlebars was a box rather like the battery pack on Richard’s whizzy bike, so I asked him if his bike was electric. No, he wished it was though. So what’s in the box? ”My father’s ashes” came the reply. Oh crikey how embarrassing. Anyway, Ian Livingston was cycling from south to north of Scotland taking his dad on his final journey and raising money for the Alzheimer’s Society before his memorial service to be held in Lochaber at the end of the month.

Loaded up the bikes again, and set off on the journey home. We had had a great day, and really enjoyed a shorter length of adventure, knowing we’d be home at a reasonable hour for a change.

Post script: We were stopped at the swing bridge over the canal at Fort Augustus just behind a motorbike. We got out of the van as it was hot while we waited for “Fingal” to go through. It turned out the cyclist would be stopping at Fort William to have a stretch and was going back to Helensburgh too. What are the chances of that? Then we saw him “talking” to two policemen at the side of the road on the straight downhill stretch near Loch Ba. What are the chances of that? Then later on as we passed the Green Welly, we saw a motorcyclist waving madly at our van as we drove past. What are the chances of that?