Over The Hill

Meall nan Tarmachan in itself is a fantastic Munro of 1044m in height with amazing views over the Lawers range of mountains and Loch Tay. Combine the mountain with it's extended ridge walk taking in the two 1000m plus Munro Tops of Meall Garbh and Beinn nan Eachan and it becomes a classic; given a fine summers day, and it becomes a truly memorable mountain day. Wednesday was just one of those days, memorable.

It was eight years since I and others had last walked the ridge, and today, Mike and Ian had decided we would repeat the same circular route from the Green Hut on the Lawers-Bridge of Balgie road, a route which gives a completely different aspect of the ridge on the ascent and decent, and where you are almost guaranteed to have exclusive rights on the hillside, unlike the busier standard route of ascent from the Lawers Nature Reserve Car Park at the Lawers end of the road.

The weather forecast for the day was fine, dry and high cloud; however, as we gathered at the Green Hut, each of us reported our concern that as we had driven through Crianlarich and along Glen Dochart the mist and drizzle required the use of windscreen wipers, now that was not in the forecast! But, we departed the rough parking area in dry conditions, and with what mist remained on the higher tops beginning to clear; it was looking very promising.

A less frequented route this may be, but that also means a pathless route, at least on the ascent/descent legs of the route, the ridge of course is well trodden. And so, it was a steady pull up through the rough grass and heather to gain the 774m top at the northern-most end of the north ridge of Meall nan Tarmachan, on the east side of which lies Creag An Lochain, sitting majestically above the reservoir in Lochan na Lairige and which is lined with multiple cliffs and crags offering a variety of climbs for those more inclined to don a harness, climbing hat and carry a long rope. Hm, a bit more about that later.

Standing on the 842m un-named top above Lochan an Tairbh-uisge the final 300m of ascent to the summit of Meall nan Tarmachan is clearly visible, a mixture of rocky outcrops, grassy rakes, and grassy hillside, the choice is yours. So, we choose three options for the initial climb out of the bowl of Lochan an Tairbh-uisge, splitting and taking our preferred route with the intention of meeting above the crags and comparing route notes. Some went left, others right, and others taking the middle option. We met, compared notes, with the middle route getting the vote as the most direct option, both left and right options requiring further detours to avoid additional crags encountered enroute.

So, that was a success. Then let's try it again for the longer, and final haul up to the main summit area. Only this time, we seemed to disperse into single units as we soon became quite scattered across the hillside, some on the higher ground heading more directly for the humps over the ridge, others, myself being one, contouring the grassier slopes, and I had my eye on a short section of rock and grass rake, which I was certain I had climbed on my last visit, remember that was eight years ago, and which would lead me directly to the top. Arriving at the bottom of the rake, I was still convinced I had climbed this before, and ignoring a perfectly good wide and easy grassy gully leading off but also to the top, I started up the craggy section. It was not high, I think no more than 20m, but it was steep. Anyway, all went well until I was a few metres from the top when I completely ran out of good rock holds, and everything became very wet and very slippery wherever I put my hand or foot. It was about this point I thought of those with ropes and helmets! Stuck within a metre or two of the top, I was figuring my options when, thankfully, I heard a call, "Are you all right there John?". Looking across to the to of the grassy gully I saw my Rescue 911 - My Boys Annual Hero - well, maybe I exaggerate, or my predicament affected my reasoning, but whatever, I was glad to see Mr McCall standing above me. "Yes Ian." I replied, "I'm in a bit of a pickle!" And so, with some deft footwork Ian got himself positioned such that I was able to reach up and grab his ankles while he clasped onto a rock, and that extra leverage was enough to get me out of a slippery situation. You know, I am still convinced I climbed that section eight years ago! The beers are on me Ian, thanks. Drama over, we made our way onto the summit, where we re-joined the others for a welcome break and to take in those wonderful views that Meall nan Tarmachan has to offer. The views however were fleeting at this point, as haze and low mist once again drifted over the summit.

Ahead of us lay the "Jewel in the Crown", the main Tarmachan Ridge. A winding path descends from Meall nan Tarmachan, passing a beautiful lochan nestling in a dip, and then climbs steeply to the very narrow summit of Meall Garbh, at 1026m a Munro Top, the top itself only big enough to hold two or three at any one time. It is then onto the narrowest section on the ridge, a short, but rather airy path before it widens and then continues to descend towards decision point. A Grade 1 scramble, or and rough and steep detour to gain the 930m bealach between Meall Garbh and Beinn nan Eachan. We choose the rough, steep detour before making for the bealach and our final climb of the day, a fine twisting ridge path to the 1000m summit of Beinn nan Eachan, our third summit of the day. A final summit I nearly missed out on. This was becoming a day of both bad decision and indecision on my part. Part way between the bealach and the summit, I decided to let the others continue, and as they would return to our current point to begin the ridge descent via Beinn a'Bhuic I would re-join them on their return. And so I settled on a fine spot and watched them disappeared into the dip, re-emerge on the higher point and climb towards the summit. I sat, watched them, and then though, "Why am I sitting here?", left my rucksack where it was and headed off to join them. Of course, they had already left the summit as I was ascending, but a nod as we passed and we agreed they would wait where I had previously stopped until I returned from the short journey to the summit.

Back with the group, we had a leisurely break before setting off on the longish, but very easy descent along the grassy ridge via the 859m top of Beinn a'Bhuic and onwards to the lower top of Meall Glas at 825m, the point at which we left the ridge and headed east down the rough grassy slopes towards the old mine workings and dams over the upper reaches of the Allt Baile a'Mhuillin where the small pools presented their cool waters in which to dip our hands, heads and for those inclined, boots off and a foot spa.

What a marvellous way to end a glorious day in the mountains - and memorable too, in more ways than the mountains, at least for me.

Thanks everyone for your company - and did I hear a discussion as to how we might extend the descent ridge walk when we again visit these mountains in another eight years time!