Over The Hill

Often we look at the drive from home to the start point of a walk as a necessary evil if we want a day in the hills; but, sometimes the drive can in itself be a joy; and today was such a day. The morning was clear and a bit on the cool side, everything that nature requires for some fantastic early morning views. It was just a pleasure to sit and look out the window of Alan's van as he drove us to the ferry point just beyond Oban. Along the lochside, Ben Lomond looking beautiful, along Glen Lochy and Ben Lui sporting a crown of mist, around the head of Loch Awe and the Pass of Brander offering wonderful views across the narrow finger of water that leads to the River Awe, an unbelievably small river feeding form a loch that is just over 40kms long, the third largest freshwater loch in Scotland. And yet there was more, as we passed Taynuilt and headed toward Connel Bridge the views around Loch Etive were truly magnificent and remained so as we joined the coast road for the final stretch to Oban. And all that before we even had our boots on. Just wonderful.

A short 500 metre ferry crossing from the mainland and we set foot onto Kerrera. This was my first visit to this island, and by the end of the day I was smitten. No roads, just rough tracks, the only vehicles being rather old, battered, and pretty derelict looking specimens owned by the 40 or so inhabitants scattered around the island - no non-resident vehicles are permitted on the island, not that you could drive on what serves for the short stretch of road that exists unless you had an off-road vehicle anyway.

Our first port of call was the ruins of Gylen Castle, situated on a high point of land at the southern end of the island, reached on a good track which runs from the ferry point along the coast and over a small neck of land to this 16th century structure. Well preserved you can explore the insides and upper levels, all with brilliant views out over the Firth of Lorne; and outside, a fine grassed area just perfect for a leisurely lunch in the sun, idyllic.

Continuing around the coastal path, now no more than a narrow, rocky and at times boggy track, we paused briefly at an unusual rock structure near Ardmore, it's shape and size really quite puzzling as to how it was formed, but which provided a brief moment of fun as those so inclined scrambled to it's narrow top. Further along the coast, is a beautiful bay by the name of Barr-nam-boc Bay, where, in the days before the steamships started to ply their trade along the west coast, was a primary crossing point from Mull, via Kerrera to the mainland near Oban. And from here we joined the track, along which the drovers from Mull would drive their cattle once landed at Barr-nam-boc Bay, to what is today the small jetty at which our ferry had arrived, however, at this point, they would swim the cattle across the 500 metres of open water over the Sound of Kerrera to the mainland.

With time to spare as we crossed the high point of the island between Barr-nam-boc Bay and Balliemore, we detoured somewhat and headed off down to the coast once again to visit yet another fine bay, Slatrach Bay, and perched ourselves upon the rocks for a late afternoon break, and to soak up some more of those wonderful coastal views. Finally, it was time to leave, and so we retraced our steps to the high track and made the final descent along the track to the small ferry terminal and our crossing back to the mainland.

An exceedingly enjoyable day, the weather was brilliant, the island a little gem, and the company, as always, delightful. - Thanks Alan.