Carn Dearg(941m) Sgor Gaibhre(955m) Beinn Pharligain(868m)
Saturday 3rd September 2016
22kms
10hrs 45mins
It was a simple plan; Friday; leave home, drive up the A82 to Bridge of Orchy, catch the train to Corrour, overnight in the Youth Hostel at Loch Ossian. Saturday; Walk through to Rannoch climbing Carn Dearg, Sgor Gaibhre and Beinn Pharlagain en route and catch the last train from Rannoch back to Corrour for another overnight at the Youth Hostel. Simple! And it worked, although there were a few minor amendments and additions.
The first of which was finding out mid-morning Friday that the A82 was closed due to a major accident, and was scheduled to remain closed for an unspecified duration; so after a few frantic phone calls to circulate this information we decided to head for Helensburgh and catch the train from there instead of Bridge of Orchy. And a fine journey it was with lovely weather to enjoy some stunning scenery along the way.
A quick coffee at Corrour, the cafe now under new management who, it must be said, are much more receptive to walkers than the previous ones, and we were off on the 30 minute walk along the estate track to the remote Youth Hostel on the banks of Loch Ossian. Wonderful views along the loch and towards Ben Alder greeted us on our arrival; however any thoughts of a nice shower, now, or after a hard days walk were quickly dispelled as Janet, the hostel warden, was very quick to apologize for a faulty water pump which cut out with annoying regularity stopping the flow of cold water. As it turned out it was hit and miss if it stayed on long enough to fill a kettle for a drink never mind take a shower. The outside pump was housed at the back of a long, narrow and very low wooden box-like structure, far to small for we tall guys to get into and re-set the switch whenever it tripped. So how did we fix it when it did trip out? Easy - thanks Lindsay, don't know how we would have managed without you this weekend!
Saturday morning dawned with persistent rain and a heavy grey mist on the hillsides as we set off along the track of the old Road to the Isles and to a point known as Peters Rock. Here we left the track and trudged through the gloom and heather to the ridgeline directly east of Peters Rock, turned south along the now grassy ridge before swinging south east on a short rocky section to the large cairn marking the 941m high summit of Carn Dearg. An easy descent east northeast to the bealach Maim Ban followed by a long steady ascent saw us atop our second Munro, Sgor Gaibhre, at 955m the highest point of day. A high point for myself , this being my 100th Munro. and two new Munros in the bag for Lindsay, Janet and Lawrie also.
Some 3 kilometres south of Sgor Gaibhre lies the summit of Meall na Meoig, at 868m, high enough to gain Corbett status. And so it was yet another change of direction as we swung south, dropping to the 675m Bealach Leathann before climbing, this time over rougher ground than was encountered on the Munros, to cross the outflow and small lochan that are linked to the larger Lochan Meoigeach which sits just a few metres below the rocky summit of Meall na Meoig. A rarity this summit, one which Alan had not previously climbed, and so today's total of new hills for everyone was complete.
Ahead of us lay the long, undulating ridge which encompasses Meall na Meoig, Mheall Mor and a couple of un-named minor tops all under the collective name of Beinn Pharlagain as we once again headed generally south on our descent toward the distant Loch Eigheach and the roadway back to Rannoch Station.
Having a train to catch at the end of our walk, we had of course allowed plenty of time for delays or mishaps on the hillside, and so we arrived at Rannoch Station at 7 o'clock, our train not due until just after 9 o'clock. The original idea being that we could grab a drink and possibly a bar meal in Rannoch Hotel; no such luck, this hotel is not walker friendly, open only to residents, with no bar service other than to those in residence or with pre-booked evening meals in their restaurant - even the front door has a bell for access, no chance then of just wandering in and pleading for a drink. Funny how some businesses work, for as we passed by the restaurant window, two lonely guests peered out at us, busy it was not!
For those who have not been to Rannoch Station, that is basically it, a hotel and a station platform, so the prospects were not looking good; two hours on an open platform being eaten alive by the midges! But there was yet another twist to our plans awaiting us as we stepped into the stations platform. Lights were on in the tea room, and the door opened when we turned the handle. The tables were empty but there was someone behind the counter. Things were looking up.
Saturday night was BINGO night! We were early, but welcome to stay and join in, everyone would be along later. Meanwhile, we ordered Cream Teas of fresh baked scones, fresh cream, jam and a big pot of tea; who needs bar meals?
Thirty minutes later "everyone" arrived, the place was heaving, every table full. There were the five of us, taking up 2 tables, and "everyone", all five of them taking up the other 3 tables. They bought wine and beer, we had milk shakes (how times change), we bought bingo tickets and raffle tickets, all of which were in aid of the Multiple Sclerosis Society and it was eyes down. I won the first line of the first game, Alan won two lines later on and Lawrie won a prize in the raffle - what a night - Great, we were sorry to see the train arrive, but leave we had to, as a walk in the pitch black and pouring rain from Corrour to the Youth Hostel awaited us at the end of a fine day.
Neither Carn Dearg nor Sgor Gaibhre are memorable mountains, bland rounded humps, but my 100th Munro will be more memorable for the people we met - the new management at Corrour, just lovely people, Janet, the Youth Hostel warden, couldn't do enough to make everyone happy, and the Bingo player of Rannoch Stations Tea Room, simply magic.
A Great Day - Thanks Everyone.
Carn Dearg, Sgor Gaibhre & Beinn Pharlagain - Photo Gallery
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