Over The Hill

Twenty-seven years ago Muriel and I climbed our way up the rocks and scree slopes in Coire Tulaich and back down Coire Altruim to a wet and boggy Lairig Gartain in our quest to climb, what then was the only Munro along the ridge, Stob Dearg. Today, Buachaille Etive Mor boasts two Munros, and two Munro Tops, the conquest of which requires a walk along the entire ridge, the Munros being at opposite ends of this stunning ridge. The years have not been kind to the route up Coire Tulaich, and so, for our route today we took on board a suggestion from Ian to tackle the ridge with an approach from Glen Etive - and it turned out to be a real gem.

Parking at the bridge over the Allt Coire Cloiche Finne (Grid Ref: NN 21950 51980) we headed off along its west bank on steadily rising, grassy slopes towards the obvious entrance to Coire Finne, where the steeper, and much rockier sides of the coire rise impressively on both sides and form a huge bowl, with Stob na Doire to the left and Stob Dearg to the right.

At the coire entrance, the Allt Coire Cloiche Finne splits to form a Y shape, and running from it's centre is a well defined shoulder which takes a much gentler line as it rises into the central bowl of the coire, with wonderful views of the ridgeline ahead and the surrounding rock crags of the mountains. Crossing the 600m height, this shoulder becomes less defined, and merges with the steeper walls of the coire, at which point, we started a gentle curving swing to the right, heading for the obvious low point on the ridge above us, between the 902m minor top, and the rocky slopes of Stob Dearg.

We crested the ridge directly above the other approach route from Coire Tulaich and were able to watch the progress of those about to struggle up the scree slopes, having started their route from Altnafeadh, smug in the fact that, in our view, our approach was a much more enjoyable experience.

Now on the main ridge, our route choice was pre-determined by the nature of the ridge itself, the rocky climb to the summit of the first Munro, Stob Dearg (1022m), where we huddled in the stone walled windbreak as an icy snow shower tried its best to obscure those wonderful views over the expanse of Rannoch Moor; a return to be 880m bealach, and onwards to the very rocky summit of the first Munro Top, Stob na Doire (1011m), by which time, the skies had brightened considerably, and we finally got those wonderful views that Buachaille Etive Mor is renowned for.

Making a very steep descent from Stob na Doire, losing almost 200m in height, we dropped to the 820m bealach before taking on the final part of the ridge, which entailed a steady pull up and over the second Munro Top, Stob Coire Altruim (941m) and onwards along the very rocky approach to the second Munro, Stob na Broige (956m). The views from this final summit were just stunning, as we could look back on the entire ridge, and beyond. A fitting end to a beautiful ridge walk.

To complete our alternate route from Glen Etive, we returned to the 820m bealach, and, whereas those on the Altnafeadh start were descending north from here into Coire Altruim (the actual descent point slightly higher up at the 860m un-named top was dangerous and inaccessible due to an overhanging cornice right at the head of the coire), we dropped off south, into Coire na Doire and descended relatively easy grassy slopes alongside the impressive crags and ravine through which the Eas Blar Eite flows. Just over an hours descent saw us gain the roadside in Glen Etive, from where it was a short walk back to our start point.

A great day, with thanks to Ian for the outline for this route, which I would certainly recommend as an alternative to the Altnafeadh approach, and thanks to Janet and Lawrie, whose company was, as usual, as enjoyable as the day.