Over The Hill

Leaving our up-market and rather palatial hostel at Invergarry Lodge, we made the short journey along the A87 before turning onto the single track road which winds it way for 22 miles along the beautiful Glen Garry, taking in Loch Garry, with it's mighty dam, Loch Poulary and Loch Quoich before climbing up and over the pass separating Loch Quoich from Kinloch Hourn, the remote farm situated at the end the of road on the shores of Loch Hourn; a journey of which it has been written: "There are few more scenically spectacular journeys to be made in Britain than the one that takes you from the Great Glen through Glen Garry to the edge of the Atlantic."¹

We did not quite go to the "edge of the Atlantic" as we stopped 2 kilometres short, at the top of the pass by the tumble-down ruins of the dwelling at Coireshubh to start our walk up the old stalkers path as it climbs in a series of twists, turns and zigzags up through a narrow, grassy corrie towards the crags below Sgurr Dubh. Skirting below the crags, the path then takes a relatively easy rising traverse before a short steep climb onto the broad ridge which separates Sgurr Dubh, and our objective, Sgurr nan Eugallt.

A steady climb on rockier ground, with a few steeper sections soon had us standing below the jagged rocks leading to the east top; a section that did require an easy scramble before taking the final steps to the 894m Trig Pt. Unusually, the Trig Pt does not mark the summit, which lies some 600 metres further north west over series of rocky humps and knolls which are a prominent feature of this mountain. The weather had been kind to us on the ascent, but, as we settled for some lunch, the rain began to make it's presence felt, as it drifted in over the nearby hills. Fortunately, visibility was still quite reasonable, and so we were able to enjoy some wonderful views, inland along the length of Loch Quoich, and, seawards, beyond Loch Hourn we could just see the outline of Skye through the gloom.

In an attempt to get an even better view seawards, we continued north west to the western most top along the ridge, the 881m, Sgurr Sgiath Airigh, where, for some inexplicable reason there is a cairn that outsize's the one which marks the actual summit. This top, with it's views towards the western isles, and inland over Glen Barrisdale and onwards to the mountains of the Knoydart wilderness was really a very fine place to be; the views, even in our cloudy conditions, were superb; they must be truly wonderful on a clear day. And just maybe, that answers the question as to the large cairn, it just may draw you towards this top rather than depart the summit without having explored the last 300 metres of the ridge.

Reluctantly, we left the 881m top and retraced our steps back over the summit and on again to the Trig Pt from where we descended the steep south east shoulder to the 740m bealach between Sgurr nan Eugallt and Sgurr a'Chlaidheimh. By this time, the weather had turned quite foul, and we were in heavy rain and a lowering cloud base as we made the steep and rocky ascent towards the first, and un-named Corbett top at 840m, before dropping down and climbing once again to the eastern most, Corbett top, Sgurr a'Chlaidheimh, 841m.

Our final descent was made via Coire Shubh Beag, over some very awkward deep grass and heather tussocks heavily interspersed with boggy holes, making it slow going, as each step had to be carefully chosen for fear of a twist, or leg deep in water. However, this was nothing to what awaited us as we returned to the parked cars at Coireshubh; the most ferocious midge attack we have had this year, we were simply covered in the little blighters, even when we dived into the cars and shut the doors, they were everywhere, on the car interior roof, on the windows, everywhere.

A great day on a wonderful mountain - Thanks All

¹James Hunter in his book A Dance Called America