Ben Starav via North Ridge(1078m)
Sunday 20th August 2017
15kms
10hrs
Five years ago, in July 2012, four of us climbed Ben Starav by the northwest ridge, it was a hard day, on a rough and very steep hillside. Why, therefore I ask myself, was I once again setting off to climb Ben Starav by this very unconventional route? Maybe I just wanted to share this "wonderful" experience with some of my unsuspecting companions.
This route has everything, a longish walk in across permanently wet grasslands as you transit the riverside from Coileitir towards the old bothy at Kinlochetive, with it's quaint outbuilding complete with earth fireplace and oven, and onwards along the shoreline of Loch Etive to the broad, stoney riverbed of the Allt Coire Sgriodian. Wet underfoot it may be, but that's the easy section, what follows is what makes this a challenging ascent of this wonderful mountain.
The northwest ridge runs continuously from the shore of Loch Etive directly to the summit of Ben Starav, all 1078m of ascent. and can broadly be split into three sections. The initial 300mtrs of ascent being over rough grass and rock, steep, and relentless. Beyond the 300m height the terrain changes to primarily a rock base of slabs and crags, most of which have a loose covering of grass, that is invariably wet, and therefore prone to being slippery underfoot. Therefore, it was with a degree of care and caution that we picked our route around, up and over what seemed like a never ending series of mini scrambles as we gradually worked our way towards the 900m height.
Here, the terrain changes once again, the final 150m or so of climb is over a boulder field comprising some very large rocks and short craggy areas. One bonus however, is that the rough boulders provide plenty of traction and grip, as you scramble upwards towards that final step onto the 1078m summit and marker cairn. Climb done - but not without some considerable effort.
One of the deciding factors in doing this route today, was the weather; we were looking for dry and clear conditions, and that we had, just a pleasant covering of high cloud keeping it cool, and perfectly dry. The drawback was that it was perfect midge conditions, and within minutes they descended upon us. Thankfully, annoying as they were, they did not seem to go on the biting spree which often accompanied their appearance and so we were spared the itching irritation of their bite.
In July 2012, we had made our descent via the recognised route down the long north ridge. However, today we headed south east from the summit, swinging north east and climbing to the summit of Stob Coire Dheirg, reached after a short scramble over the rugged and jagged ridgeline, and from which the birds-eye view over the tops of the rock pinnacle stacks in Coire Dearg is quite superb. Continuing from the summit of Stob Coire Dheirg we descended around the rim of Coire Dearg down the ever broadening ridge to Bealachan Lochain Ghaineamhaich, the crossroad of paths in the Starav range linking the Munros of Ben Starav, Glas Beinn Mhor and Beinn nan Aighenan.
At 767m we stood on the edge of Bealachan Lochain Ghaineamhaich and looked directly north to Glen Etive, and could just distinguish Alan's yellow van awaiting our return; however, before then we would have the long descent along the course of the Allt nam Meirleach to the distant bridge over the river and back passed Coileitir to our waiting vehicles.
Again, another very hard but satisfying day on an unconventional route, Thanks Alan.
Ben Starav via North Ridge - Photo Gallery
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